Jewelry is a special
gift that can bring joy for a lifetime. Jewelry is made out of almost every material
known and has been made to adorn nearly every body part. It is also best to know
basic jewelry terminologies that could affect your buying factors.
Baguette setting -- A rectangular-shaped stone with rows of
step-like facets. If the baguette's two long sides taper inward, it is called
a Tapered baguette. Baguettes in long, thin cut rectangles are often used as
enhancements to a lager center stone, or on a watch bezel.
Bar setting -- Similar to the channel setting,
it is a circular band of diamonds or gemstones that holds each stone in by a
long thin bar, shared between two stones.
Barion cut -- This has a traditional step-cut
crown and a modified brilliant-cut pavilion. A square barion cut diamond has
62 facets, excluding the culet. 25 on the crown; 29 on the pavilion; and 8 on
the girdle.
Bearding or girdle fringes -- The outermost
portion of the stone, called the girdle, can develop small cracks that resemble
whiskers during the polishing process. The bearding can sometimes be removed,
if not too dramatic, with slight re-polishing, and if the weight allows.
Bezel -- With a bezel setting, a rim holds
the stone and completely surrounds the gem. It is the upper portion above the
girdle of a cut stone. Bezels can have straight edges, scalloped edges, or can
be molded into any shape to accommodate the stone. A watch bezel is the upper
part of the case surrounding the dial. They can be set with diamonds or other
gemstones.
Blemishes -- The term blemish is used when
the diamond has scratches or marks on the external area of the stone.
Brilliance -- Liveliness, or sparkle in a stone
when light is reflected from the surface and from the total internal reflection
of light.
Brilliant-cut -- Brilliant cuts are scientifically
found to reflect the most light from within the stone, and often are considered
to have the most brilliance of all cuts. A round brilliant-cut diamond has 58
facets. Other brilliant cuts include the heart, oval, marquise and pear shaped.
Cabochon -- A facet-less style of cutting that
produces a smooth surface. They can be in many shapes, including round with
high domes to squares.
Carat -- Unit of measure of weight of diamonds
and gemstones. One carat is equivalent to 200 milligrams. One carat can also
be divided into 100 "points." A .75-carat stone is the same as a 75-point
or 3/4-carat stone.
Certification (or Diamond Grading Reports) --
There are many recognized gemological laboratories that can grade your stones
for a fee. The most well known is the GIA, Gemological Institute of America.
Channel setting -- Used most frequently for
wedding and anniversary bands, a channel setting will set the stones right next
to each other with no metal separating them.
Clarity -- A diamond often has natural imperfections,
commonly referred to as inclusions, which contribute to its identifying characteristics.
Inclusions are found within the diamond, and can be white, black, colorless,
or even red or green. Most are undetectable by the human eye, and can only be
seen with 10X magnification. Inclusions are ranked on a scale of perfection
called clarity.
Cleavage -- A natural area of the diamond where
a weak bond holds the atoms together. The gem will be split along these planes
by the cutter.
Cluster setting -- This setting surrounds a
larger center stone with several smaller stones. It is designed to create a
beautiful larger ring from many smaller stones.
Color -- Diamonds are graded on a color scale
established by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Fancy colors refer
to diamonds with hues like pink, blue, green, yellow, and very rarely red. Fancy
colors are not included in this color scale and are considered extremely rare.
Crown -- This is the upper portion or the top
of a diamond.
Culet -- The bottom point of the diamond. It
may be polished in some stones. Sometimes, a cutter may choose to make the culet
a surface instead of a point.
Cushion cut -- A mixed-cut diamond shaped like
a square pillow.
Cut -- Cut refers to the angles and proportions
a skilled craftsman creates in transforming a rough diamond into a polished
diamond. Based on scientific formulas, a well-cut diamond will internally reflect
light from one mirror-like facet to another and, disperse and reflect it through
the top of the stone. This results in a display of brilliance and fire. Diamonds
that are cut too deep or too shallow lose or leak light through the side or
bottom, resulting in less brilliance, and ultimately value.
Cutting style -- Cutting styles is different
than diamond shapes. The simplest and most common way to explain cutting style
is to categorize it into the following three basic types: Step-cut, Brilliant-cut
and Mixed-cut.
Deep cut -- When a diamond is cut too deep,
it will lose or leak light through the side or bottom. This results in less
brilliance and value.
Diamond -- A diamond is the hardest known natural
substance. It is crystallized carbon. Diamonds are mined in their rough form
and then, cut and polished to reveal their brilliance.
Diamond Grading Reports -- There are many recognized
gemological laboratories that can grade your diamond for a fee. The most well
known is the GIA, Gemological Institute of America.
Dispersion -- When light enters a diamond it
reflects off the facets and the angles cut into the stone. This distribution
of light is known as dispersion, or the display of the spectral colors.
Emerald shape -- A rectangular or square-shaped
cut-cornered diamond. A form of step cutting, this cut is favored for diamonds
and emeralds, as well as many other stones, when the principle purpose is to
enhance color rather than brilliancy. It is also sometimes used to emphasize
the absence of color in diamonds.
Facet -- Any flat polished surface of a diamond
or gemstone. This style of cutting gives the stone many small faces at varying
angles to one another. The placement, angle and shape of each facet are carefully
planned and executed to show the stone's inherent beauty, fire, color, and brilliance
to the fullest advantage.
Fancy Cut -- A diamond cut other than round
-- such as baguette, emerald, pear, marquise, square, oval, heart, etc.
Fracture Filling -- A process that injects
a substance into a diamond to hide inclusions.
Feather -- A type of inclusion or flaw within
a diamond. It is described often as a small crack or fissure.
Finish -- Describes the exterior of the diamond.
If a diamond is well polished, it has a very good finish.
Fire -- Often a term used instead of "dispersion,"
it is the variety and intensity of rainbow colors seen when light is reflected
from a diamond.
Flat-top setting -- Like the Gypsy setting,
this setting has a band that is one continuous piece that gets thicker at the
top. A flat-top setting grows broader at the top so that a faceted stone can
be inserted into the ring at the broadest part. The stone is held in place by
metal chips attached at the stone's girdle.
Fluorescence -- When exposed to ultraviolet
light, a diamond may exhibit a more whitish, yellowish or bluish tint, which
may imply that the diamond has a property called fluorescence. The untrained
eye can rarely see the effects of fluorescence. Diamond grading reports often
state whether a diamond has fluorescent properties. Fluorescence is not considered
a grading factor, only a characteristic of that particular diamond
Gemological Institute of America (GIA) -- A
nonprofit teaching institute considered the standard-bearer in the grading of
diamonds and colored gemstones.
Girdle -- The outer edge of a cut stone, the
dividing line between the crown and the pavilion. Sometimes the girdle is polished
and sometimes it is unpolished. Ideally the width of the girdle should be even
and proportional to the cut of the stone.
Growth or grain lines -- These can be considered
internal flaws, and can often be seen only by rotating the diamond very slowly.
They can appear and disappear almost instantaneously. They appear as small lines
or planes within the diamond.
Gypsy setting -- The Gypsy setting is predominantly
used for men's jewelry. The band is one continuous piece that gets thicker at
the top. The top is dome shaped and the stone is inserted in the middle.
Hardness -- Resistance a material offers to
scratching or abrasion. Generally measured using the MOHS scale.
Inclusion -- "Internal characteristics"
apparent to a trained or professional eye at 10x magnification. Inclusions can
be bubbles, crystals, carbon spots, feathers, clouds, pinpoints, or other impurities,
or even cracks and abrasions. They are what make a diamond so unique, as a fingerprint
does for a person.
Illusion setting -- This setting is more intricate
than others in that it surrounds the stone to make it appear larger.
Loupe -- Any small magnifying glass mounted
for hand use, to hold up to the eye socket or attach to a pair of glasses.
Luster -- The hue and depth of reflection from
pearls, opals or other opaque stones.
Marquise shape -- A double-pointed, boat-shaped
stone that is long and thin with gently curved sides coming to a point on either
end. Marquise is part of the brilliant-cut family; ideally cut it has 58 facets.
Mixed-cut -- This cut has both step-cut and
brilliant-cut facets. Mixed cuts combine the beauty of the emerald cut with
the sparkle of the brilliant cut.
Mele --
Small, usually round diamonds less than .10 carats in size.
Natural
-- A diamond characteristic that is part of the surface of a polished
diamond that was not cut or polished during the cutting process.
Oiling
-- This technique is commonly used on emeralds. The purpose of this
technique is for the oil to fill the fine cracks that weaken the green color.
The oil fills the cracks making them "disappear" and thereby improving
the color.
Pave --
A type of setting where a number of small stones are set together. It literally
means paved with diamonds.
Pavilion
-- Bottom portion of the stone, under the girdle, measuring to the
culet. It is the area below the girdle consisting of 23 facets in the round-brilliant-cut
diamond.
Pear shape
-- Term used to describe any diamond whose girdle outline resembles
a pear shape. Ideally cut pear shapes have 58 facets.
Pinpoint
-- An inclusion within a diamond. A gathering of pinpoints is called
a "cluster" or "cloud." A cloud or cluster can appear as
a hazy area in the diamond, a pinpoint appears as a dot.
Point --
Term meaning one-hundredth of a carat -- approximately the size of one-half
a grain of sand.
Polish
-- Indicates the care taken by the cutter in shaping and faceting the
rough stone into a finished and polished diamond.
Poor cut
-- A poorly cut diamond can be either cut too deep or too shallow.
A deep or shallow cut diamond will lose or leak light through the side or bottom.
This results in less brilliance and value.
Princess
cut -- A square or sometimes rectangular-shaped modified brilliant-cut
diamond.
Prong or
claw setting -- The metal tip or bead that actually touches the stone
and holds it into place. This setting usually consists of four or six claws
that cradle the stone. Because this setting allows the maximum amount of light
to enter a stone from all angles, it sometimes can make a diamond appear larger
and more brilliant than its actual weight. This setting can also hold larger
diamonds more securely.
Proportion
-- The proportions of a diamond are very important, so that the maximum
amount of light be reflected off and out of a stone. Proportion is the relationship
between the angles of the facets of the crown and pavilion.
Radiant
cut -- A rectangular or square shaped diamond with step-cut and scissor-cut
on the crown, and a brilliant-cut on the pavilion.
Refraction
-- The bending of light rays as they pass through a diamond or gemstone.
Rough --
Uncut diamonds or gemstones.
Scintillation
-- When light reflects from a diamond, the sparkling flashes that come
from the facets of the gem are known as scintillation.
Shallow
cut -- When a diamond is cut too shallow, it will lose or leak light
through the side or bottom. This results in less brilliance and value.
Shape --
Form or appearance of a diamond; i.e.: whether the diamond is round, triangular,
square, marquise, pear, oval or heart-shaped.
Solitaire
-- A single diamond or stone set by itself in mounting.
Step cut
-- With rows of facets that resemble the steps of a staircase. The
emerald cut and the baguette are examples of the step cut.
Symmetry
-- Symmetry is the arrangement of the facets and finished angles created
by the diamond cutter. Excellent symmetry of a well-cut and well-proportioned
diamond can have a great effect on the diamond's brilliance and fire. Grading
reports will often state the diamond's symmetry in terms Excellent, Very good,
Good, Fair, or Poor.
Table --
The top surface of a cut diamond or gemstone.
Table facet
-- This is the largest facet of a diamond. It is located on the top
of the diamond. The table facet is sometimes referred to as the "face."
Table spread
-- Term used to describe the width of the table facet, often expressed
as a percentage of the total width of the stone.
Tension
setting -- A diamond is held in place by the pressure of the band's
metal, which is designed to "squeeze" the stone.
Trillion
shapes -- Is a triangular-shaped diamond with 50 facets. Trillions
are commonly used as side-stones.
Well cut
- Well-cut proportions ensure the maximum compromise between fire and
brilliance. When light enters a properly cut diamond, it is reflected from facet
to facet, and then back up through the top, exhibiting maximum brilliance, fire
and sparkle.